Senegal has become a popular destination for Nigerian travelers and has long been favored by surfers and the French. It is increasingly sought after as a tourism destination for African travelers because of the friendly visa-free policy for ECOWAS countries. Beyond the allure of its no visa requirement for Nigerians and ECOWAS countries— its stunning landscapes and rich food culture are worth multiple visits. This Senegal travel guide delves into a short and sweet itinerary, providing insights into transportation, visa requirements, accommodation choices, and an exploration of Dakar and its surroundings.

Is Senegal worth the visit? Read more to decide for yourself.

I went to Senegal for a 2 week long trip; 7 days with a couple of friends and then I spent the remaining 7 days at a surf camp on Ngor Island in Dakar. This guide will focus more on the first 7 days in Senegal portion of my trip. If interested in the surf camp I did in Dakar, I will also share the link to the surf camp at the end of this guide.

Senegal travel guide
Lake Retba by Curioso Photography

Visa or Travel Documents for Senegal

For Nigerians and ECOWAS passport holders/country members, Senegal welcomes you without the hassle of a visa. Utilize your ECOWAS passport or Nigerian international passport for seamless entry. Others can check visa requirements using the widget provided, ensuring a smooth travel process.

Travel Insurance

This goes without saying, always travel with travel insurance.

Some local travel insurance companies in Nigeria like AXA Mansard and Allianz Nigeria exist. I prefer to use international insurance companies to receive the same dollar value of the loss because the local companies reimburse in Naira, which is not so great with the ever-fluctuating currency.

My current preferred option is SafetyWings which goes as low as $11.27 for a 7-day trip when you visit any country but the USA, which attracts a higher fee.

Flights from Lagos to Senegal

The fastest flight to Senegal is via Airpeace, but flight time adherence is not the best; their flights are often delayed. So while it might be the fastest on paper (approximately 4 hours), the reality may be a different experience; my return flight was delayed by 5 hours (9 hours altogether). Asky and Kenya Airways provide viable options. Use the search bar below to discover other budget-friendly and timely options.

Senegal travel guide: highlights of saly, ngor island, and dakar
Giraffe at Bandia Reserve by aliunix

Senegal Travel Guide – Transportation in Senegal

Navigating Senegal begins with a reliable airport pick-up service. Despite potential flight delays, Senegal’s charm awaits, and a well-organized transportation plan ensures you make the most of your stay.

  • Hire a taxi to take care of you for 48 hours – Assane +221 77 653 89 36 (he does not speak English. Or Benoit – +221 779066269 or +221 775523267. We communicated via text and Google translate is your friend).
  • You can also rent a car by reaching out to +221 771605060 for decent rates

Senegal Travel Guide – Accommodation

We booked a villa in Saly, a French expat-filled beach resort town that is about 2 hours outside Dakar and 45 minutes from the airport. Our vibe for this was all about relaxing by the pool or seaside, eating amazing local food, and seeing Senegal without too much fuss, which is what this Senegal travel guide is about. Saly was our base and we used a taxi service to take us around Dakar for sightseeing activities.

Hotel Option

For those who prefer to stay at a hotel/resort while traveling, Lamantin Beach Resort is arguably the best option in Saly. They also host an annual New Year’s Eve party (this includes a dinner buffet and drink service) which makes for a special way to clock in the new year with loved ones.

Villa Option

We made our bookings via Airbnb and the host experience was not the best, for an alternate experience without dealing with demanding or biased hosts, use VRBO.

Senegal travel guide: highlights of saly, ngor island, and dakar
John karwoski

Senegal Travel Guide – My Saly Experience in Senegal

A surprising number of French expats call Saly home or vacation there during the holidays, and our experience was a bit unexpected. Most of the restaurants along the coast are foreign-owned (predominantly French), and our experiences ranged from cordial to begrudging, to rude. Consistently, there was either xenophobic or racist treatment from the waitstaff and restaurant owners 90% of the time.

The unexpected “you’re not welcome here” attitude in an African country predominantly inhabited by Black people was disheartening. We spent 6 nights in Saly and thought our experiences were unique to us until we met up with friends visiting Saly who shared similar.

The Airbnb we stayed at was a beautiful home owned by a French lady… that also turned out to be quite an unfortunate experience.

So while Saly is a beautiful beach town, the energy towards African tourists is utterly terrible.

I did not experience the same while in Dakar.

Senegalese Food You Must Try Out

Senegal is a country with a rich cultural tapestry, that offers a gastronomic adventure that tantalizes taste buds and reflects the nation’s diverse heritage. From aromatic street food to vibrant local markets, Senegal’s culinary landscape is a bold fusion of flavors that captivate and celebrate the essence of the West African palate.

Many Nigerians will probably be annoyed by this statement, but our beloved Jollof rice is from Senegal and their version of it is hands down the best I have eaten yet (yes Ghanaians, yours included).

Authentic Senegalese food was a key focus for us during this trip and we hired a Senegalese chef at our villa to help fulfill this goal, daily. I also ate every version of dish our chef prepared at multiple street stalls in Dakar, and they were consistently amazing.

For those planning to visit Senegal, make sure to try out at least these 3 dishes before leaving the country:

Senegal travel guide: highlights of saly, ngor island, and dakar
egunsifoods.com

Thieboudienne – Senegal’s National Dish:

Let’s begin our culinary exploration with Senegal’s national dish, Thieboudienne. This iconic one-pot wonder features seasoned fish, typically grouper or red snapper, cooked with vegetables, rice, and a flavorful tomato sauce. The blend of spices and fresh ingredients creates a harmonious and satisfying dish, offering a true taste of Senegal. For fans of jollof rice, trying out this flavorful Senegalese dish will take you on a beautiful journey and may make you switch your allegiance from Jollof.

Yassa Poulet – Tangy and Flavorful Chicken:

Yassa Poulet is a mouthwatering chicken dish marinated in a zesty blend of onions, mustard, and lemon juice. Cooked to perfection, the chicken absorbs the tangy marinade, resulting in a succulent and aromatic delight. Served with rice or couscous, Yassa Poulet showcases Senegal’s mastery in balancing bold zingy flavors.

Mafé – A Peanut Stew Delight:

Indulge in the rich and nutty flavors of Mafé, a hearty stew made with peanuts, tomatoes, and often beef, lamb, or chicken. Slow-cooked to perfection, Mafé embodies Senegal’s culinary prowess, offering a unique combination of savory and nutty undertones. It’s comfort food at its finest.

Senegal travel guide: highlights of saly, ngor island, and dakar
“Mafé” by taliesin 

Senegal Travel Guide: Explore Dakar in 48 Hours

Embark on a two-day exploration of Dakar, ensuring a perfect blend of sightseeing and relaxation.

Day 1 of Exploring Dakar

Goree Island – Our taxi picked us up at 7 am from Saly and we got on a ferry by 10 am to visit Goree Island. Visiting Goree Island is not an experience that should be rushed. We hired a personal tour guide when we arrived on the island by the entry point; there are many guides available for hire at the entrance. We negotiated a rate based on suggestions from locals we met in Saly and the process was pretty straightforward. Many tour companies will charge 100s of dollars for this excursion, save your money and do this:

Round trip ferry ticket on the public ferry to Goree Island is 5200 CFA

Goree Island entry is 500 CFA

A local tour guide is 5000 CFA (online tour companies use them also, but you end up paying 10x for the same service)

Most of our day was spent learning about Senegal’s slave trade history and sharing stories with the locals. I noticed that some travelers chose to explore the island without a local guide’s assistance, but what is the point of visiting such a historically rich part of the world and not learn its history?

Senegal travel guide: highlights of saly, ngor island, and dakar
 statue on Goree Island © Ko Hon Chiu Vincent

Once we got back to Dakar’s mainland, we rushed off to the mall in the area for some emergency purchases and did a quick hi-and-bye stop at the African Renaissance Monument before driving back to Saly around 6 pm.

Day 2 of Exploring Dakar and the Outskirts

Lake Retba – We left our Airbnb in Saly at 7 am and went off to Lake Retba, the famous Pink Lake of Senegal. It was a 3-hour-long drive.

Senegal travel guide: highlights of saly, ngor island, and dakar
Photo by Papa birame Faye

There are multiple boat companies lined along the lake waiting for tourists to hire their service, so you would be spoiled for choices. Make sure to visit in the morning to avoid the blistering sun in the afternoon. We spent about 30 minutes on the lake – there honestly wasn’t much to do but relax as the boat got paddled across the lake for us. A friend went in for a swim and his skin suffered for it. If you want to do the same, make sure to pack a moisturizer and filtered water for a quick rinse after the dip. We got to see the effort that goes into the salt extraction process.

The pinkness of the lake depends on the weather; when it gets a bit windy, the pink hue is a lot more obvious.

Fee for Lake Retba boat – 5000 CFA

After our boat ride, we arranged for a 45-minute quad bike tour of the area. Make sure to test the bikes before agreeing to ride them, a friend’s bike kept shutting off every couple of minutes, and was refused the choice of changing the bike due to inventory issues. We made sure to test the bikes before jetting off beyond Lake Retba and the experience was amazing and worth every penny. We drove our bikes to a beach nearby and spent about 20 minutes relaxing on the beach. They also offer camel ride experiences, but after my time in Morocco, my thighs did not want to be a part of that experience ever again.

Also, do not be too shy to haggle

The fee for the quad bikes was 45,000 CFA for the 3 of us (I haggled for a group combo rate with the boat trip included – 60,000 CFA). The typical rate is 20,000 – 25,000 CFA for single riders.

Senegal travel guide
friends and I

Reserve De Bandia – From Lake Retba, we drove back towards Saly and went on an afternoon safari adventure, Reserve De Bandia. I worried that we were too late in the day to see any animal activities because animals typically find shade when it gets too sunny, but that was not the case for us. I rarely go on safaris because I am honestly terrified of them, but this was beyond my expectations.

We saw a lot of zebras, giraffes, and antelopes which were perfect for scared self, haha. The reserve is also home to white rhinoceros, buffalo, giant eland, Cape eland, Oryx, roan antelope, waterbuck, western Buffon’s cob, greater kudu, nyalas, impalas, damas gazelle, red-fronted gazelle, warthog, patas monkey, green vervet monkey, jackal, mongoose, crocodiles, giant tortoise, ostrich, and many more, as well as over 120 species of bird.

For the best viewing experience, visit at the 8 am opening time instead of midday as we did.

For Reserve De Bandia prices, see below

Adults12.000Fcfa18,5€
Children until 12 years old  7.000Fcfa10,5€
Use outside vehicle(personal,taxi,car)10.000Fcfa15€
Safari truck rental with up to 11 seats40.000Fcfa61€
Safari truck rental up to 24 seats60.000Fcfa91€
Guide (compulsory)per vehicle  6.500Fcfa10€
Senegal travel guide: highlights of saly, ngor island, and dakar
Photo by Pixabay

There are other museums and tourist sites we could have visited, but 2 days were just enough for us to do all the touristy activities we were interested in and then spend the remaining 4 days relaxing, checking out the local restaurants, bars, and eating a lot of the amazing Senegalese food our chef made for us.

Senegal travel guide – 1 Week of Surf Camp

For those seeking a unique experience, spend some time at the Ngor Island Surf Camp, a surf camp on Ngor Island off the coast of Dakar. Whether you’re a pro surfer or a beginner, the camp offers a memorable experience. Besides surfing, the daily trips to different surf points across Dakar allowed me to see many hidden local gems.

Senegal travel guide: highlights of saly, ngor island, and dakar
aerial shot by Ngor Island Surf Camp

I struggled a lot with grasping the surf lessons due to my terrible fitness level and knee problems. I’m currently undergoing physical therapy to get my muscles ready enough to revisit and truly experience what the surf camp has to offer.

Besides my struggles on the surfboard, I spent most of my time in a hammock with a good book watching new friends surf. The owner of the camp was amazing and while I am not a decent surfer (mostly because I attempted surfing twice and relaxed most of the time, hehe), I highly recommend this place. For travelers not keen on staying at the camp, you can book your accommodation on the island and then trek to the camp for surf lessons.

Besides the daily surf lessons offered, it made for a unique way to explore hidden gems in Dakar and beyond the city. They do daily drives early in the morning to different surf spots and longer trips to different parts of Senegal that are amazing for surfing or fun day trips.

Altogether, Senegal, with its visa-friendly policy and captivating destinations, promises a unique adventure. From the historical depths of Goree Island to the picturesque landscapes of the Pink Lake, this 7-day itinerary is a gateway to Senegal’s beauty. Be prepared for unexpected nuances, embrace the cultural mosaic, and savor every moment of your Senegalese escape.

Senegal travel guide: highlights of saly, ngor island, and dakar

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